Day 1, Sunday/Monday, October 4/5 -- Rough Start
On Saturday afternoon we received an email from the manager of our Rome apartment -- so sorry but the last occupants had “vandalized” the unit and we couldn’t use it until the plumbing was repaired, but he just happened to have another apartment he’d let us have for the same rate. We smelled “bait and switch” but he had us over a barrel, so we simply asked for additional info about substitute apt. Meanwhile we checked out the new one and it rented for 20 euros per night less than our contracted one. How nice of him to let us have it for the “same rate.“ He wrote back that we could stay for three nights in the original, but then move to the second. Now we were certain we were being messed with and didn’t agree to the move but decided to deal with it upon arrival. And so our saga began.
I arranged for a taxi to pick us up at 4:55 a.m. Sunday. I awoke at 4:52, and panicked, thinking the alarm hadn’t gone off. We ran around like idiots getting ready and then the alarm rang. With that time in my head, I had set the clock for pick-up time. And then the phone rang. The cabbie was on time! We actually got out of the house by 5:07. And that is how an obsessive compulsive happened to leave her bed unmade for four whole weeks.
We grabbed the arriving newspapers on our way out the door, made it to the airport and found incredibly long lines at security. Ever the multi-tasker, I went through the papers, discarding the ads, Sports, and other junk we were unlikely to read. Finally got through my personal pat down with minutes to spare. Charlie went off to find coffee while I went to the ladies room to finish my toilette.
By the time we got on the plane, Charlie was almost speaking to me (though not a happy camper) and I had newsprint all over my shirt and coffee on my jeans. Oh well, I only needed to wear these clothes for the next 24 hours.
Believe it or not, the flight was uneventful. Made it through customs, got cash from the fourth ATM we tried, and got on an express train to town with hardly a wait. We had checked prices on line and thought we’d save about 25 euros by doing this instead of a limo/shuttle. Caught a taxi immediately. And thence our first Roman rip-off. We spent 37 euros for what the online taxi calculator said should cost 7 -- more than the limo would have been. I’m starting to understand why people take tours.
So sleep deprived and angry we meet Enrico, our apartment manager. Disappointed would be putting it mildly. The place was a dump. He gave us the song and dance about the plumber coming on Thursday, but the shower works for now. He promised to take us to see the new place and to move us there in his car. Meanwhile he sent us out to kill time while they cleaned up. I’m already thinking maybe moving won’t be so bad. Our deposit was only one night’s worth and he hadn’t asked for the rest yet. The apartment is located right off the Campo del Fiori in the old part of town. So I guess when he said it was renovated and was modern, he meant renovated in the 19th century. Anyway, the campo is the flower market by day and a happening place of wine bars and loud bands at night. Do you see where this is going?
One piazza over we discovered a sukkah, swarming with more security, both private and police, than Chabad Lubavitchers in their holiday best. We nurse a panini and watch the crowds. We doze on a stone bench. And then we go back to our apartment. It looks presentable. We nap. The world looks better. We shower. The drain doesn’t empty and the tiny pan fills up. We take Navy showers and believe the story about the plumbing. Freshened and feeling a little less taken advantage of, we go in search of a super mercato and discover the charm of the neighborhood. Our street has small shops and galleries with apartments above.
Finally, I’m remembering why we like to travel. We ate in a lovely little osteria on a pedestrian side street in a vine covered patio. The food was unexceptional but the ambiance was pure Italy. We strolled through the Piazza Navona, and listened to a young people’s concert. I think it was an evangelical mission group, but since we couldn’t understand it anyway, we just enjoyed the enthusiasm and energy.
By the time we fell into bed, we didn’t even mind the noise from the bars and street bands. That is, until 2:00 a.m. when the after parties began. We were awakened by a drum that had to be in the apartment next door. It kept up until 5:00 when the trucks started delivering the flowers and other tchotzkes for the market. We drag ourselves out of bed, Charlie goes out for fresh bread for breakfast, and we decide that unless the next place is worse, we’re going to agree to move.
Day 2, Tues, October 6 -- Serious Tourism
Did I mention it’s really hot? Decided to do the obligatory Rome, so we started with the ancient ruins. We walked through a business and commercial center to the Piazza Venezia and Victor Emmanuel Monument. Decided not to climb the stairs (many, many, of them, a la Rocky at the Philadelphia. Museum of Art), but still walked up quite a few to the Campidoglio, which is Italy’s capitol hill. Enjoyed the view of the ruins of the ancient forum below, and then went down for an up close and personal view. Spent hours there, walking in the heat and dust, along with thousands of other tourists. It’s very hard for me to contemplate the impressive history and engineering feats of the ancient Romans when surrounded by so many sweaty people. Don’t they know the world economy is hurting and they were supposed to take their holidays in August, anyway? Most of the travelers are European and Asian. Always some Americans, but relatively few compared to other years.

But onward to the Colosseum. Much more of this ruin is standing, hence it’s easier to visualize it in its day. These ancient Romans really knew how to build! I hadn’t realized there was a maze of rooms under the wooden floor of the stadium and the gladiators fights took place on dirt covering that floor. Nor did I know there were dozens of fights daily, every day, man v. man, man v. animal, animal v. animal. See how educational travel can be? Nor did I know that Charleton Heston didn’t race in the Colosseum, but in the Circus Maximus next door.

Before heading home, we went up the Palatine Hill. Though the ruins are scant leaving much to the imagination, there is an incredible view of the city in one direction and the Forum below in the other. We went back down the hill through the ruins of the forum, seeing a different part. By the time we headed for home we had made some tactical decisions. We would eschew crowds, even if it meant missing attractions. We would always carry water rather than buying at tourist stands at 2 euro a pop. We would not wait until day 4 to move, but would do it tomorrow. We would pass on audiotours (TMI on the Forum). We would even pass on museums unless there was something extremely compelling. Maybe we’re Philistines, but just walking around and getting a feel for how the Romans live is more interesting to us than braving the crowds at the “must see” sights.
Had seen a restaurant in Piazza Navona that advertised free wi-fi, and since the wi-fi connection promised at the apartment was only occasionally strong enough to actually get on line, we headed over there for dinner. Despite the fact that the connection there wasn’t much better (is it us or is it that we Mac users just can’t adjust to Microsoft?), despite the fact that the waiter bumped into me and jammed my arm into my chair hard enough to create a bruise complete with blood, and despite the fact that we knew it was a tourist trap in a touristy area, the meal turned out to be delicious. (P.S. He didn’t even comp us anything, but he did offer an ice bag for my arm.)
Again exhausted, we headed home. Again the bands could be heard, but didn’t keep us awake. Again the drummer began (at midnight tonight). We are so outta here. (But I thought of you, Matt and Sage. This is a happening place. You’d love this area. It just isn’t happening for us!)
Walked 20,379 steps on my pedometer = 6.2 miles = one gelato
Day 3, Wednesday, October 7 -- The Move
Exhausted and more than a little resentful that we had to plan our day around seeing the new apartment, we set off for the Ghetto. This was just reconnaissance because we knew we wouldn’t have time to see too much before meeting Enrico. The actual ghetto was totally destroyed in the late 18th century, and the new synagogue began its Capital Campaign then. It took 30 years to raise the funds -- after all, these were poor people and it took a generation of freedom to make the down payment. We signed up for a walking tour and went back to meet our good friend Enrico, who couldn’t actually pick us up where we were because he didn’t have a permit to drive in the ancient city.
Well, the new apartment is absolutely great! I had seen it on line and rejected it for being too far away from the center of things. Far from the center is Good! It is modern, clean, everything works, and it turns out that just north of the Vatican isn’t so far from things. The neighborhood is new (that is late 19th century) with broad tree-lined sidewalks, commercial on the ground floors and apartment complexes behind entry gates. It kind of reminds me of Paris. We negotiated a deal -- for our inconvenience -- and arranged for him to pick us up with our stuff that evening. He dropped us right across the Tiber from the ghetto and we took our walking tour, saw the museum, and visited the synagogue. As in Venice, the Jews were permitted only one synagogue, so they combined five congregations into the Cinque Scolare. The new building actually incorporates two of them today, and there are 12 others in the city. Nearly half of the 35,000 Jews in Italy live in Rome and this complex houses the JCC, mikvah, Hebrew Day School, and museum. It also had a sukkah set up. That’s two more than we expected to see. Security here is incredible. Large concrete planters surround the premises since the terrorist attack on Simchat Torah 1982, when a two year old was killed and many injured.

Walked back to pack and say a not-so-fond farewell to Via del Pellegrini 13, and then schlepped our bags to the river where Enrico could drive to pick us up. Got moved in, found a super mercato, ate at home and hit the hay.
17354 steps
Day 4, Thursday, October 8 -- In The Groove
What a difference a day makes! Or should I say a night makes. We slept. The apartment is quiet and dark and we are rested and refreshed. Set off by Metro (2 short blocks away) to the Spanish Steps. I remember it with flower markets at the base. But maybe that was just for Audrey Hepburn. The American Express office is still there. That’s where I went for my mail 43 years ago. Strolled the high rent shopping on Via Condotti, Charlie actually looking (perennially) for a leather eyeglass case. I teased that he wouldn’t buy it if he found it, prices are so ridiculous. He’s also looking for a new hat. It’s fun to have a mission while shopping, especially when you don’t HAVE to make a purchase. I’m astounded at how many people are actually buying. Rome is definitely not feeling the pinch the U.S. is. We moved on to the Trevi Fountain, which is as beautiful as I remember (whether it’s a real memory or a movie memory). I’d like to edit out the crowds. Didn’t get close enough to toss my coin.

Walked on to the Piazza Colonna (with the obligatory column -- this time it’s Marcus Aurelius) where the deputies of the prime minister have their offices. The adjacent piazza has an Egyptian obelisk (Antony and Cleopatra’s loss). Then the Pantheon. This may be the most incredible sight in Rome. Built in 120 A.D. it is a perfect sphere, sitting in square walls, so it looks like a semicircular dome. There is a cut-out at the top for natural light. St. Peter’s and the Duomo in Florence came later. Originally built for all the Roman gods, the Church took it over and the contents are all Christian now. That doesn’t mean the mosaics aren’t beautiful, but they’re sort of transitional from the middle ages to the Renaissance, so lack the mastery of perspective that is seen later.
We headed out for Trastevere, the left bank in Rome, both literally and figuratively. Stopped for lunch along the way, back in the ghetto. We probably found the only non-kosher place on the street, because Charlie had a craving for mussels. And they were fabulous! Trastevere is mostly quiet and residential, but has interesting shopping -- some upscale, but mostly local -- and many streets are closed to traffic. Great for walking, and probably a great area in which to stay. Took a pass on the museum of antiquities and the botanical gardens.
By the time we had worked our way up to the Vatican, the museum was closed, but we had more or less decided we didn’t want to be herded through. Would have liked to have seen the Sistine ceiling since its cleaning, but we’ve learned it’s not worth braving the crowds. We stood in St. Peter’s Square for a minute and headed for home. We went to a neighborhood restaurant recommended by Enrico for dinner. They were surprised, but accommodating, when we asked to sit inside. The night was still warm and lovely, but everyone in Italy smokes and the mosquitoes love me, so we were ushered to a table for two, the only table in that section except for a reserved table for ten. Soon thereafter the place swarmed with suited, earphone- wearing security guards. Minutes later a man in his late 70’s - early 80’s came in with a woman on each side. Over the next several minutes they were joined by his minions. He was clearly the big cheese, though whether he was a movie star, a politician, or a mafioso, we had no idea. (Of course we wouldn’t recognize most American “celebrities” either!) Other patrons seemed to notice and comment, but we couldn’t tell if they recognized him or were speculating. Anyway, the staff was so preoccupied with fawning over him, we couldn’t get our check. When he lit up a big cigar -- his buddies and security went outside to smoke, but he was clearly above the law -- we got up to leave and just paid on the way out. I swear they wouldn’t have noticed if we had just walked out.
An exciting end to a lovely and interesting day.
21,300 steps
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